Revisiting The Roaring 20's at Mimi Kakushi
This is not a review about bob haircuts or nostalgia though we may make glancing references to both when waxing lyrical about Mimi Kakushi.
Tucked discretely away within The Four Seasons Resort in Jumeirah lies this future retro inspired Japanese restaurant. Mimi Kakushi is a rare act that is able to transcend ‘the meal’ into a bonifide culinary experience that is disarmingly cool yet still able to hit all the high notes expected of fine dining. With it’s neatly hidden entrance and the fact that it’s nearly impossible to get a table serving to reinforce the notion that this is some sort of secret swing jazz club where only cool cats are allowed.
Effortlessly melding artful eastern influences with avant-garde western fashion, the destination theme plays out beautifully. Everywhere you turn the expressive interiors scream Asian Art Deco in an ever so quiet and considered Japanese’s murmur. Based around a 1920’s Hollywood heartthrob and first real Asian movie star Sessue Hayakwa the overall design style of Mimi Kakushi sends you on a trip to the lavish parties of a forgotten era. Light, shadow and texture have been expertly crafted by the powerhouse duo that are Pirajean Lees to provide an eccentricity that perfectly suits the occasion. It’s glam with out being gaudy, trendy without being tacky and cool without being cliched. That’s quite an achievement in this modern era of over styled, thematic driven Dubai restaurants, where style over substance is nothing more than a inconvenient irony.
There’s no chance of that scene playing out here as this appears to be a venue that is genuinely devoid of douchbaggery. The guests are sharply dressed, the waiting and serve staff too and there’s a welcome air of approachability that’s rarely seen in this type of joint. There’s a definite buzz going on as we are welcomed and guided to our table as the curated jazz soundtrack delivers the perfect ambience.
From the outset it’s clear that the staff are on point and this is one of those unique places in Dubai where guests are able to build an actual rapport with the wait staff through friendly banter and genuine engagement. This sees us sorting out cocktail selections while munching on the perfectly salted edamame as we peruse the menu. On to the menu and it reads like you would hope. From sushi, sashimi and maki rolls it’s all there including their signature Geisha Chef’s Selection platters. We went for the Fatty Salmon Belly Sashimi and the Soft Shell Crab Maki, both were excellent as expected.
Of course hot and cold small plates are to be expected and they don’t disappoint. For this visit we opt for the Octopus Carpaccio and the sublime (and must try) Smashed Harmachi. While the Black Cod Gyoza is somewhat of a revelation, the Tiger Prawn Tempura fell a little flat coming off as little too heavy on the batter. This minor quibble was soon forgotten by the arrival of the Chicken Yakitori Kushi that sees beautiful and succulent marinated chicken thighs dusted with shichimi and cooked perfectly. Up next was the rather more substantial and wonderfully balanced Kagoshima Donabe Rice pot, which features wagyu beef, sweet shallots and crispy onion finished with tamago & wagyu dashi. It was very nice but there was nary a space left to even consider anything else which only serves to inspire immediate thoughts of the next visit to pick up on the things we missed including the incredibly quirky dessert menu.
Bottom Line:
Mimi Kakushi is the perfect place to impress friends or colleagues or to just simply delight the senses. With an outstanding menu and delectable dishes this is a restaurant that not only skillfully celebrates the roaring 20’s of Osaka but puts quality craftsmanship at the forefront of their approach. From the elaborately understated surrounds of a bygone era to the impeccable service and attention to detail provided by the hosts, this transformational venue does everything right to ensure that your visit and your spend is absolutely worth it.
